The project of an Indian-French couple, Tsermang Eco Camp is an extraordinary place in an extraordinary part of the world.  Located on the banks of the Indus river, just outside of Leh proper, it’s a brilliant example of how to do low-impact tourism that takes advantage of a location’s strengths while leaving a minimal footprint in a fragile environment.  At the end of every summer, the entire place is packed up and put into storage.  It’s maybe good to start with what Tsermang does not provide:  There is no electricity, no bar, no disco and no swimming pool.  What Tsermang does provide is a chance to go off the grid in comfort, in a quiet, beautiful location, with amazing food from a professional chef, and 10 or extremely comfortable tents with real beds.

The key to understanding the place – and deciding whether it is right for you – is that they make do with what is available. Meals are brilliant (especially when you consider they are coming from a tent), but there is one dinner option per day.  Showers are from a bucket, and the water is solar-heated, so you need to plan around the sun’s scheduling to get hot water.  Tsermang practices a form of ‘austere’ luxury – trying to make you very comfortable within the limits of what is practical and responsible in a place like Leh. The owners can also help to arrange guides and drivers for trips and hikes in the surrounding areas.

If you come looking a traditional, high-maintenance Indian luxury hotel, you will be disappointed. If your idea of luxury is a good meal, a good night’s sleep and a beautiful view, then Tsermang can provide one of the most remarkable experiences you are likely to have.  It’s that good.

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