In July 2012, Van de Markt moved up the block to a prime location directly on the Amstel River, and has built a large wine cellar to go with its elegant new dining room. The atmosphere is a bit more formal than we remember at the old address, but certainly not stuffy, and the service is very attentive. In fact it manages to be the kind of place you could go for either a romantic or business dinner, and nobody would feel awkward.

The food is broadly based on French and Italian concepts with subtle tweaks borrowed from other places: fresh ravioli made with peas; or a Terrance Major cut of beef with a smear of charred eggplant, which adds the smokiness you find in a good baba ghanoush to the dish. We felt bad for the dessert team though, because they have to compete with the most impressive cheese trolley we’ve ever seen in Amsterdam.

You can order off the menu, but we suggest you just go with the tasting menu and see what shows up.